Scroll down for step by step instructions
DO YOU have VERY SENSITIVE, REACTIVE SKIN OR SEVERE ACNE?
PLEASE PROCEED WITH CAUTION!
If your skin is inflamed, blemished, irritated or highly sensitive caution is advised. When making any changes to your routine, proceed slowly and with caution, armed with knowledge, sound advice, and rational expectations!
Before starting with oil cleansing, especially if you have problematic skin issues, please take a deeper look into oil cleansing and skin function. Oils can irritate your skin and potentially make problems worse! I know you don't want to hear that but please be careful in your search for solutions especially when trying to resolve issues.
Start oil cleansing with just ONE oil. Choose one high-linoleic oil or jojoba to start, be very gentle applying, and remove them after just a few moments of massaging, followed by a second cleanse to completely remove the oils.
For those with severe acne please proceed with extreme caution and stop oil cleansing if your problems get worse or if new outbreaks appear immediately following oil cleansing.
Who gets the best short and long-term results?
If the skin and acid mantle are in good shape and you experience only minor skin issues every so often, like an occasional outbreak, clogged pores, or comedones, or if you have aging skin or dry skin, then Oil Cleansing could become your new BFF! You will get the most benefit from many different oils.
You should see some immediate results; an increase in suppleness and an increased ability to absorb treatment oils will be noticed quickly. In the long term, your skin will become stronger and more resilient, and you may even notice a reduction in the development of new lines, wrinkles, and sun damage.
Scroll down for detailed instructions. Please reach out to me with questions.
THE ALCHEMY OF OIL CLEANSING - There is no book on The Oil Cleansing Method and there isn't a “one size fits all” approach. The steps I outlined below differ a little bit from most resources you will find in your search for information.
PLEASE RESIST USING VERY HOT WATER. Hot water is damaging to the facial skin and can make sensitive skin issues worse, which can lead to more skin problems and is especially risky if you have severe acne. Most OCM instructions recommend using a hot steaming washcloth pressed to your face to remove the cleansing oils. Those with more severe acne, looking for a reduction in outbreaks make a habit of removing the oils this way. I suggest resisting the urge to use the steaming washcloth method.
EASY ON THE EXFOLIATING. Gently exfoliating is a vital step in any skincare routine. But care should be taken not to overdo it. Those with very sensitive skin or severe acne will want to be very careful not to create more problems.
Addressing the challenges of exposure to tap water is paramount when seeking happier skin, resolving skin issues, and supporting healthy aging as the years go by.
There are some simple things we can do to help you skin retain optimal functioning by always adjusting the pH of your skin whenever it comes in contact with tap water.
A second cleanse with pure, raw honey is effective and simple, followed up with a well formulated, alcohol free, toner (The long forgotten reason we tone our skin is to adjust the pH).
CHECK THE pH OF YOUR WATER: Our skin actually “sees” neutral pH 7 tap water as an alkaline solution. To perform all its complex functions, our skin must be slightly acidic. Taking pH readings from the forehead, nose, both cheeks, and chin of test subjects reveals a normal range of 4.5 to 5.5 for women, and 4 to 5.5 for men. Most don’t realize that a pH of 7 is MAGNITUDES more alkaline than what skin requires for optimal functioning. Exposing our skin to an alkaline solution even just once a day, every day of our lives, is going to take a toll.
GOOD RESULTS WITHOUT USING CASTOR OIL: I suggest that Castor Oil be reduced to less than 10% of your blend or eliminated. If you have very sensitive, mature, or aging skin, dry skin, or dry patches then I would suggest leaving the Castor oil out altogether. Due to its unique properties, Castor oil is extremely cleansing, but it can also lead to problems such as dry, irritated skin and a worsening of skin problems. We can get great results with oil cleansing without the use of Castor oil, or with a minimal amount. It should never be used alone, in a blend it should be included at less than 25%, which is still quite high.
OILS CAN BE IRRITATING TO SKIN: What’s this you ask? An oil is comprised of rather large molecules, quite a bit bigger relatively speaking, than a molecule of water. So what do you ask? Unbeknownst to most, oil molecules, due to their large size, can irritate our skin. Those with less than happy, resilient skin with a high tolerance threshold for stress without damage (meaning a strong, intact Acid Mantle) need to know that oils can make your current skin problems worse, and cause new problems when adopting oil cleansing and for the application of leave-on treatment oils.
~ STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS ~
AT THE END OF THE DAY:
Only wash and exfoliate your skin in the evening/night and never before exposure to sunlight. In the morning, after a night time of repair, healing, and rejuvenation our skin is most ready to take on the stresses of the day.
At the very most, a gentle wash with pure, raw honey (honey cleanse) is all you need to remove sweat and sebum. Resist the urge to do more - your skin will thank you for it in the long run.
WASH YOUR HANDS
REMOVE EYE MAKEUP WITH YOUR PREFER METHOD.
PREP YOUR FACIAL SKIN. (optional) Pressing a warm washcloth (not hot) to your face for a few moments will soften the skin and prepare it to receive the oils. Pat dry.
APPLY OILS TO DRY SKIN WITH DRY FINGER:
Pour a generous amount, about a quarter-sized amount, of oil into your palm. Then using your fingertip, dip them into the oil and apply. Using your fingertips, massage the oils into your skin carefully to avoid your eyes. Pressing your fingertips into the skin as well as moving them over the skin surface will help force the oils into pores. Be careful not to tug or pull your skin.
Oils penetrate hair follicles and pores best when APPLIED TO DRY SKIN.
USE PLENTY OF OIL .. Don’t skimp, more is better! We want good slip so as not to tug the skin, and enough oil to get complete dissolution of the debris we want off our faces.
Quick Removal or Long Soak Method?
How long to leave the oils on is a personal preference. Different approaches suit different people. Climate, age, skin status, personal preference.
THE FIRST 4-6 WEEKS: For anyone new to oil cleansing, remove the cleansing oils within 1 minute. If you experience tingling, irritation, new bumps, or anything indicating that your skin is not enjoying the new experience, stop for at least a week, then try again with a different oil.
AFTER 1 MONTH OR SO: As your skin adjusts and/or heals and you are happy with the results, you have not developed any issues or sensitivities, or new outbreaks, you might like to try the long soak method for deeper conditioning. This is especially beneficial for those in a dry climate and/or have mature skin but not for those with sensitive skin issues. Simply apply the oils, massage for a moment, and then chill out while the oils work their magic for 5- 10 minutes (I don’t recommend longer than this). If your skin is really craving oils, you might find that they have mostly absorbed by the time you are ready to remove them! I suggest that you apply more oil right before you remove them to make sure you have good dissolution, massage in for a moment then continue to the removal steps.
When you start with oil cleansing please choose a single oil without essential oils to work with for at least 1 month. It’s the only way to know if the chosen oil is compatible with your skin.
After the first month with good results you can start to try new oils, adding essential oils, and creating or using cleansing oil blends.
Hemp seed oil, grape seed oil, apricot seed oil, and jojoba are good choices. Resist the urge to use coconut oil or olive oil (both can disrupt the skin barrier).
REMOVING OILS: DRY, WET, or STEAM?
We want to ensure that we are getting a good cleansing and not leaving debris behind. How you will be removing the oils depends on whether or not you have heavy makeup and sunscreen on, the status of your skin (healing or resilient) your personal experiences with oil cleansing, and personal preference.
DRY METHOD (best for removing heavy makeup and sunscreen). With a soft cotton cloth, cotton pad, or paper towel (I like VIVA Woven paper towels) very gently wipe away the majority of the oils from the surface of your skin before using any water. Just gently wipe or dab away the oil, being careful not to tug or pull your skin.
WET METHOD: After massaging in the oil for a few moments and before wiping the oil off, with wet fingers or a spritz of your toner or hydrosol, gently massage for a moment then remove the oils.
Why a soft paper towel? If we don’t remove the oils from our skin with a clean cloth we’re asking for trouble. Oil on our rags is just impossible to remove over time and they become contaminated with oily debris.
Instead, cut Viva Signature Cloth paper towels into squares and use them to gently remove the cleansing oils. After much experimentation with these paper towels, I’ve found them to be the most gentle.
Final wipe and rinse … then a second cleanse.
Soak a clean rag in very very warm (not hot) water.
Gently press the cloth to your face then and wipe. Dabbing will not remove the oils, wiping is needed to remove the oily debris However, this is a way that OCM can be irritating, just so you are aware.
Repeatedly rinsing the rag in very, very warm water and then gently wiping is required. Finally, splash with very, very warm water, wipe a little more, then pat dry.
Despite reading over and over that we need a steaming hot washcloth to remove the oils, this is false and it WILL CAUSE damage and other problems down the road (this is a documented fact and one of the many ways we impair or damage our skin. The effect of heat on skin permeability.
Hot water is super sensitizing and one of the many ways to damage the Acid Mantle. Skin redness is a sure sign. If you’ve been using the steaming cloth method and begin to develop sensitivities this is one of the factors involved. Careful, time is of the essence to reverse the damage.
THE SECOND CLEANSE: pure raw honey
Over the years it has become clear to me (one who still breaks out occasionally) that a second cleanse gives the very best results. And the best way to do that is with pure, raw honey. Especially if you have acne, eczema, rosacea, or any other inflammatory condition.
Honey is a mild solvent with a long list of skin benefits. For those with inflammatory issues, Manuka UMF 10-15 is a great choice for a face wash (use UMF 20 for spot-treating acne outbreaks, redness, and irritation. Kanuka Honey is also a good choice, especially for helping with eczema.