Top

IN THIS ARTICLE:

What is the Acid Mantle?

What can damage it?

SIGNS OF IMPAIRED FUNCTION

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BATHING TO CONSIDER

How do we cope with the impact of hard tap water?

Can you get your head around the fact that the thing that protects us from the big, wide world is about 1/3 the thickness of one thin dime? That's it! That's all that stands between you and the vast reaches of space. This tiny barrier is a miracle of nature which can be easily damaged. Our bathing habits and choice of cleaning products in the modern 1st world are totally out of sync with the homeostasis of our skin and our evolutionary biology.  Washing twice or even just once a day was UNHEARD of until less than 100 years ago when weekly bathing for the vast majority of Americans became the norm. 100 years before that, even that was not common. Go way back, and we have to assume that "bathing" was pretty much unheard of. Add to this the fact that the vast majority of people are now bathing exclusively with synthetic detergents. 

In early advanced civilizations, skin cleaning and health were achieved with herbal preparations and soapy natural substances. These practices stood the test of time for thousands of years.  It is true that the introduction of synthetic soap and the increasing habit of regular hand washing greatly reduced the spread of infectious diseases right before the widespread use of antibiotics to treat disease. But I do not believe in the myth that before the modern era, everyone's life was misery and pain, brutish and short.  Studies of indigenous people the world over, coupled with ample archaeological evidence, prove that many populations of early humans enjoyed extremely strong, healthy, vibrant, glowing skin well into a ripe old age. Along with excellent physical and mental health and sunny dispositions! 

Our fall from harmony with the natural rhythms of nature has far-reaching consequences. But I digress ... back to our skin and how to help it be strong and resilient with NOURISHING SKIN CARE TRADITIONS 

What is the Acid Mantle and How Does it Function

Add the acid mantle to the long list of bodily functions which doesn't receive much attention but which can easily be at the root of skin issues, or be making them worse.   

Our skin is made up of layers. The very top layer, the Stratum Corneum, has a thin, protective hydro-lipid layer on it. "Hydro" for moisture and "lipid" for sebum. This is the Acid Mantle.  This film is created on the very top surface of the skin with excretions from the sebaceous glands mixed with compounds, including lactic acid, cholesterol, ceramides, and amino acids. The acid mantle is our front line of defense against invading bacteria, viruses, toxins, pollutants, dust, pollen, etc. 

The acid mantle is also where your skin's microbiome resides. MILLIONS, if not BILLIONS, of microscopic creatures, perform vital biological functions there. We are just starting to understand the many roles these beneficial creatures play in protecting us from our often hostile environment. Research suggests they play an important role in our immune system. By preserving and nurturing the acid mantle, we also nurture our skin's native flora. LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR SKIN MICROBIOME

What can damage the Acid Mantle

SIGNS OF AN IMPAIRED FUNCTION

over exfoliation

washing with synthetic soaps and cleanser

over use of harsh chemical peels and acids like Retin A. 

Bathing and washing with hard tap water.

If we knew better how the acid mantle functions, we would take better care of it! It's surprisingly easy to damage it. Unknowingly, we do not properly care for this microscopic film. Even just stepping from dry, air-conditioned spaces to hot, humid outdoors or going outside on a cold day in a dry climate can alter skin function for a moment.

Premature skin aging, wrinkles, sun damage, acne, rosacea, eczema, and dermatitis can all be caused or made worse by an impaired acid mantle.  

We are often very hard on our skin. Physical over-exfoliating, either too often or with too much force, can cause serious damage. Repeated use of harsh chemical peels can cause more long-term damage. 

Risky practices adopted by those seeking natural alternatives turn to DIY creations, which can also be dangerous. Without proper knowledge, formulating something that will benefit, not harm skin, requires more information than most home crafters possess. For instance, baking soda is a real no-no! It has a very alkaline pH, which is very damaging to the acid mantle and will cause harm! Poorly preserved products are also a big issue when seeking natural alternatives from small batch manufacturers, due in part to very little oversight of cosmetic safety guidelines. 

Our modern lifestyles take a BIG toll on our skin health. Today, we rely heavily on synthetic detergents. Many of which have proven to be quite damaging to the skin. After stripping away the Acid Mantle with SLS-containing detergents, it takes our skin much longer to restore the acid mantle than after washing with natural oil soaps, pure seed oils, or old-fashioned Cold Cream ((I'm not talking about POND'S cold cream!)  Very few people use these old-fashioned approaches to cleaning, but they are a good choice if you want to adopt a more natural approach to skincare. 

If we understand the human history of cleaning ourselves and with what, the history of how soap was discovered, and the invention of synthetic detergents, we might take a new view of bathing! At the very least, it can inform our decisions about what we use to cleanse and what techniques and habits will support healthy skin. 

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BATHING TO CONSIDER

Indoor plumbing, new synthetic "soaps," and new synthetic cosmetics, all introduced after WW1, have transformed the lifestyles, expectations, and practices of all Americans -forever. In the 100 years which has passed, our habits and expectations have been entirely altered by the explosive growth of the cosmetic, beauty, fashion, hair, and skin care industries. Daily bathing and face washing were heavily promoted by marketing executives to sell all the new amazing stuff, and they continue to do so with increasing zeal!

We have been convinced that we must bathe at least once a day for proper hygiene and for aesthetic reasons.  Prior to the modern era, no one bathed or washed every day!  Considering this all "just" happened, the evidence is mounting that these changes are entirely out of sync with our biology and the list of physical impacts is growing. How do we reconcile our biology and our modern, 1st world existence? Looking to the past, we can glean some knowledge.

For thousands of years, soap was made mostly at home from oils and fats, the old-fashioned way, much like your great-grandmother did not so long ago! It was rather harsh and was not commonly used for bathing. It was used to clean pots and pans, do laundry, and other cleaning chores (and the occasional potty mouth!). 

"Cold Creams" (not the synthetic version POND'S or similar!) were used for thousands of years for facial care, cleansing, and other skin uses. These were made at home if you could afford the ingredients: beeswax, distilled water, maybe vinegar, witch hazel, or flower water, emulsified with a fat or oil. A small jar of this magic potion would have been used very sparingly a few times a week at the very most.  It was applied and then removed with a dry cloth. This simple formula not only cleans but nourishes and maintains our skin. It was said to have been invented in Greece in the second century by a physician, but I suspect it was in use long before that.

Digging deeper: HOW DOES HARD WATER IMPACT THE ACID MANTLE

The modern era has also brought hard water into our homes. Water containing a lot of dissolved minerals and metals is referred to as "hard water."  80-90% of all homes in America now have hard water flowing from the tap. And that means you are bathing in it, drinking it, washing your clothes in it, and washing your face and hair in it.  And this can spell trouble for our skin. One because it doesn't rinse well, it leaves behind soap scum on your skin! And two, the effects its alkaline pH has on the precious acid mantle. 

Human skin can only function optimally when the mantle's pH is maintained at 4.2 to 5.6, which is slightly acidic. This is an overlooked and underappreciated aspect of healthy skin, one that is poorly understood by most consumers of skin care products.

As the name "acid mantle" implies, our skin needs to be in a slightly acidic state to maintain our force field. Impairments to this vital barrier and accumulation of soap scum and residues can lead to skin disorders such as rosacea, dermatitis, itchy skin, clogged pores, outbreaks, and acne. It also exacerbates them by forcing our skin into a constant state of "disease," - leading easily to dry, dehydrated skin vulnerable to acute and chronic inflammation, which can lead to more skin problems, premature aging, and disease. 

HARD WATER - WE ALL HAVE IT !

check this map to see how hard your water is .....

It takes 30 minutes to 4 hours or MORE for the pH to return to a healthy state and for full function to be restored to the acid mantle after washing with any kind of foaming substance in hard or soft water.  How long this takes depends on factors such as skin health, nutritional status, and deficiencies, age, what you are cleansing with, and the list goes on. Restoration of the acid mantle is further negatively impacted by bathing in alkaline water.  

In some places, the pH of the water is intentionally increased to prevent corrosive minerals from building up in pipes. The alkalinity of tap water can be as high as 9.

Those with skin problems should take special note because alkaline water will impact skin health and its ability to heal. When you cleanse with any kind of soap or soapy substance, you throw off the pH for a period of time, during which your skin is working to restore its protective barrier. Before the acid mantle is restored, water loss from the skin surface increases, potentially causing dryness and flaking, itching, tightness, redness, and sensitivities. In this state, the skin is susceptible to eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, inflammation, and acne.  Even those with minor skin issues such as occasional outbreaks or dry skin, people with infants, and anyone over 50 should look into the harness of their tap water. 

We must figure out a way to deal with hard tap water before making major changes to our skincare routines. Just switching to natural cleansing options and changing our bathing habits might not be enough to support healthy skin or heal from chronic skin problems, which is why many of you are here reading this information!     

 

PROTECT AND RESTORE THE ACID MANTLE

Making changes to a routine should be done with care!  Those whose worst complaint is feeling persistently parched and dehydrated but no underlying health issues impacting the skin or inflammatory issues of the skin can make changes to routines with little to be concerned about. 

However, if your skin is inflamed, blemished, irritated, or highly sensitive, or if you are experiencing histamine reactions (itch and redness), great caution is advised when making any changes to your routine.

Proceed slowly and with caution, armed with knowledge, sound advice, and rational expectations! Consult a dermatologist for a skin diagnosis, especially if the condition is acute and painful.

 

CHOOSE REAL SOAP, OIL CLEANSING OR OLD FASHION COLD CREAM!

For those with healthy skin, our acid mantle is restored faster after washing with pure oil soaps, pure seed oils, Emulsifying cleansing oil blends, and even old-fashioned Cold Creams (NOT PONDS). These are all ways to support and maintain a healthy acid mantle. (Due to consumer demand, There are now safe synthetic surfactants, which are very mild, biodegradable, much better for the environment, and support healthy skin. These are used in many organic and natural formulations.)

Natural oil soaps do have a basic pH - it is partly how they work and why they kill (and do not harbor) microbes. Real soap, however, is proven to allow the skin to reestablish a slightly acidic pH quickly. Permitting our skin to start rebuilding/repairing the acid mantle. HOWEVER, just bathing and washing in hard water with a pH higher than 7 will negate some, if not all, these benefits. Remember, too, that hard water is not great at rinsing, and residue is left behind! This is not good for our skin, period!

RINSING WITH STEAM DISTILLED WATER

If you are experiencing acute, painful skin issues and are unsure of the situation with your tap water. I suggest you get it tested, and in the meantime, use steam-distilled water to wash your face.  

Opting for "dry cleansing" with Cold Creams and seed oils (no water is used at all) and reducing how often you wash with ANY soap or detergent will have benefits.

WITCH HAZEL, HYDROSOL WATERS and TONERS

The most beneficial aspect of any toner is its slightly acidic pH. Most often, toners contain alcohol, or alcohol might be hiding in an ingredient in the formula. For this reason, I prefer the very mild, nourishing tradition of using 100% pure plant, steamed-distilled, artisanally crafted hydrosol waters. They make, by far, the perfect natural toner: gentle, plant-derived, naturally slightly acidic, alcohol-free. 

If you love witch hazel for all its amazing properties, then please know that the vast majority of the commercially available “witch hazel” DOES have an alcohol content even if not listed on the ingredients - some alcohol is created during the process by which commercial witch hazel is made. So, for the same reason we should avoid toners with alcohol, we want to choose HYDROSOL WATER. It has zero alcohol content and hundreds of plant compounds in tiny amounts to condition and nourish skin and restore pH.

EXFOLIATING, SCRUBBING AND ACID PEELS

One sure way to protect your skin more from solar rays is to DO NOT WASH AND NEVER EXFOLIATE IN THE MORNING! Use only warm water and/or pure raw honey. Period. Full stop.

Why? When we exfoliate, we reveal new skin cells. These fresh, shiny new cells need time to mature before exposure to solar radiation. The number one cause of over 80% of premature aging! Even the sun coming in your windows and the clouds! Immature cells are especially vulnerable to sun damage (and all kinds of damage) when exposed to sunlight. Washing and exfoliating at night allows the new cells to mature. After 8-12 hours of repair and rejuvenation during sleep, they are now ready to take on the onslaughts and stressors of the day!

There is a lot of controversy surrounding exfoliating techniques, practices, and products. One thing for sure? Only exfoliate 2-3 times a week, no matter what you choose to use. And remember chemical peels and Retin A damage the acid mantle in various ways. We really don't want to be chemically burning off the top layers of skin without a clear underlying medical reason. Thinner, weaker skin is … well, thinner and weaker. It’s easy to do the math here.

3 Comments